Leave No Man Behind

Twelve years ago, our lives were forever changed when we met a ruby-lipped cherub. She was 5-½ weeks early, offering the greatest April Fool’s Day prank I’ve ever been the recipient of. My sweet Siena Lillian came into the world squawking and determined. Impossibly small at 5-lbs, 11oz, we would spend the next 17 days in the hospital while she got stronger. And the next dozen years getting to watch this amazing kid grow. She now stands 5’1.5″ tall and wears a women’s size 8 in shoes. She loves reading, circus, and the outdoors. She’s a cautious rule-follower, a hard worker in school, and is a great conversationalist, with a keen interest for history. She has the most genuine of hearts and gentlest of personalities. She leads with kindness in all she does, and watches after her brothers with affection and a dash of annoyance.

Her birthday always falls around Spring Break, so instead of birthday parties, we often get creative with celebrating on the road. This year, we hopped in the Jeep and drove to Blanchard Springs Recreational Area. It is famous for its impressive cave, though due to to COVID, it is closed indefinitely. However, we found there was plenty to discover above ground.

We jumped off the main trail and discovered a natural staircase carved into the side of a mountain. A little further up we saw enormous limestone rock formations making up an entrance to a cave. The boys squealed with excitement as they explored the huge space. Siena nervously asked, ”Should we be doing this?” I grinned at her and said, “Probably not, but sometimes it’s okay to live a little, kiddo.” That was all the permission she needed soon she was off scampering after her brothers. 

Over and over again, John and I fielded: “Dad! Look at this!”, “Mom! Come here!”, “No way! You have GOT to see this!!”

Rhodes plucked some purple, white, and yellow wildflowers for my hair, as Porter picked some for Siena. We discovered interesting looking rocks and plants, and I explained how stalactites and stalagmites were formed. Porter told us all about bats and copperheads.

We continued onto a gorgeous green-blue spring and waterfall, basking in the fact that we were the only visitors to the park. The kids and John sought to climb the coolest and most severe of rock formations, while I lingered along the ground admiring spring buds, flowers, minnows, and rocks.

I settled at the base of a small waterfall to sketch. Siena followed me some time later and sat beside me. In doing so, she jostled a root that ran along the entire back of the rock I was rested on and into the ground above. Thinking it was a snake, I leapt up, lost my balance, and went tumbling into the river, sketchbook and all.

When the Hickman men returned, John wanted to go on another hike. I was feeling a little stiff from my fall, so warned him that I might only make it one way and he’d have to pick me up in the Jeep. The trail was shorter than expected and extremely easy. I could have made it back with no issue – and intended to. But John, ever worrisome for me offered, “Well, there’s no way for me to pick you up unless you cross the river. You could shimmy down this log, but you’d have to take your boots off and get in the water for the last little stretch”

Well now. Cross the rocky-floored river barefoot in the frigid waters or go back the way I came? Why shimmy the log at all? Just cross the whole thing barefoot, I decided. I hiked my pants up, removed my boots, tying the laces together and tossed them over my shoulder. John gasped when he saw me. “Babydoll! You’ll kill your feet on those rocks!” I laughed. Had he forgotten how much I love being barefoot, rocky soil or no?

I slipped a little, nearly went all in a couple times. The kids stood on the bank stunned at their adventurous mother.

You see in our family, John is the adventurous one. John lets them do the daring tree climbs and rock scrambling. Every time we are on a hike, they say, “Careful, Mom.” Or ask if I’m ok. I often have to remind them that I’m sturdy and capable.

But yet, they see the woman that is their mom now. The worry-wort standing below, ready to nurse them should they get hurt.

They don’t know the silly, spontaneous woman I once was. They haven’t met the woman (and for good reason!) that drank from the broken jagged neck of a wine bottle down the darkened streets of Montepulciano, or the woman that jumped out of a moving vehicle in flip flops to chase a sheep in Ireland. Nor the woman that rode a felucca down the middle of the Nile while bandits chased us down in the pre-dawn hours, nor the woman who stole away in an armed caravan across the desert to see ancient Egyptian ruins. They don’t know the thrill of excitement I had when an elephant tripped over John’s and my tent in the middle of the night or when hyenas sniffed our bottoms mere inches away with only a piece of canvas separating us, or that time I peed on the open plains of the Serengeti while John nervously kept watch for lions and cheetahs. Nor do they know the woman that swam with penguins in South Africa, or drove a scooter at high speeds (without a helmet no less!) through the winding roads of Patmos. The woman that backpacked around the world, rode a rickety bus on a roughly carved dirt road up a steep mountain pass in the rainforest of Costa Rica, slept in a barn in Switzerland, or raced off in a Smart car after stealing back our passports from a crotchety old Italian woman. 

That woman peeks out from time to time. She’ll suddenly climb a tree. Or scramble up a steep granite wall, or boulder hop across a river. She’ll wander off the trail to catch a closer look of a wildflower, or jump out of a boat to swim back to shore.

Their father always looks on, never surprised, but always delighted, to see the woman he fell in love with glimmer through the rigors of responsibility and persistent state of exhaustion. In those moments, he remembers she’s still there, and his heart thunders a little harder.  

My toes were nearing numb by the time I reached the shore, but I felt refreshed. I continued to walk barefoot through the soft spongy moss on the shore, through virgin forest until I found a boulder to sit on to lace up my boots again. I chuckled as the kids screamed from the opposite shore, but told them they couldn’t follow, as the rocks were too rough and slick.

John recommended a fallen tree laying across the breadth of the river. The two older kids skooched their little butts across the log, struggling a bit at a particular narrow part of the log. When they reached the end, they hopped over a wobbly boulder and onto shore. I thought it too risky for Rhodes to follow, but he ran off behind a tree, crouched down with his tiny fists pressed into his eyes, while his shoulders silently shook. It gutted me.

“All right, John. Let’s get him over,” I said.

John loaded him onto the log and offered instruction. I perched at the other end, stretched out as far as I could safely go. Siena stood on the shore, legs sturdily placed, arms stretched, waiting to take him from me. Porter stood off to the side hollering words of encouragement. I surveyed the river below and plotted how I would get to him should he fall in.

Rhodes started down the log, realizing it was much scarier than he expected. John mounted the log behind him to guide him as far as he safely could, nervous when the old tree groaned in response. All four of us rooted him on. There was about five feet Rhodes had to go completely on his own. I eyed the river carefully. John watched nervously behind him. Both of us poised to pounce into the river. Finally Rhodes was in my arms, with a grin as wide as the crescent moon. I scooped him up, kissed his baby soft cheek and swung him over to Siena. He jumped up and down celebrating, the adrenaline coursing through him.

I found a little quarter sized snail shell, bleached white by the sun and handed it to Rhodes. “This is your trophy for making it across. You were SO BRAVE.”

He protested, “But I was scared!”

“Yes, but you didn’t let your fear hold you back, baby. And that’s what makes you brave.”

John retreated to the trail to get back to the Jeep, while the kids and I explored an old dilapidated cotton mill. It looked like the ramparts of an ancient castle. The stone walls were steeped in age. Moss, grasses, and wildflowers shot up through the cracks. I sat down to sketch while the kids played make believe, fighting off deadly enemies with grenades made of rocks and guns of sticks. Even Siena. She may be twelve, and growing out of the play stage, but when protected by the privacy of her family, she dives right in and plays alongside her brothers.

Suddenly Rhodes fell over onto the soft grass, clutching his stomach. “I’ve been shot! I’ve been shot! Medic!” Porter raced around the corner of the wall, dived for him and drug him into safety, “We don’t leave men behind!”

No, I guess we don’t. Certainly not sweet little brothers.

Click the images below to view the full-size gallery and captions.

Blanchard Springs Recreational Area
Birthday Celebration
Indian Rock House Cave

We visited this very cool trail featuring a huge bluff shelter that stands 122-feet wide, 90-feet tall. Archeologists discovered that Native Americans used this area as shelter as early as 1,000 BC. It features many petroglyphs, believed to be of a ceremonial nature.

Golden Pond RV Park

We stayed at the edge of the Ozark National Forest near Shirley, Arkansas for a week. It was a charming little spot where the kids were able to distance learn, while John worked. We enjoyed daily walks down to the little pond of green-blue waters. The buds on the trees were just starting to bloom. The weather was warm in the daytime and cool at night – perfect for campfires and running about!

The Nitty Gritty

Not all days on the road are glamorous. In fact, some are downright frustrating.

We took off on Saturday, leaving at a leisurely pace. Experience has taught us that getting out of the house is never as timely as we wish it to be, so a shorter drive is necessary. We stopped at a campsite (and I use that term loosely) two hours south of Des Moines called Lakeside Casino Resort RV Park. Resort was an extremely generous description. It was basically a parking lot with sewer, water, and electricity hookups. But it was flat with concrete pads so leveling was a breeze, and all the sites were pull-through, which meant there was no need to unhook our Jeep toad. For a quick stopover, convenience is key. There were no trees, nor a field to run in for these little travel warriors. Just concrete and blue hairs traversing to and from the garishly lit casino.

We took off early on Sunday. As soon as we hopped on the freeway, the demands began.

Mom! I can’t get the DVD player to work. Mom! I can’t open this drawer. Mom! Where are my colored pencils? Mom! I have to go potty! Mom! I want a snack! Mom! Can I have a treat? Babydoll! How many miles are we on this road? Mom! I’m bored! Babydoll! Where’s the nearest gas station? Mom! I need water. Mom! When are we going to be there? Mom! He’s crowding me! Mom! He won’t stop making that noise! Babydoll! Do you mind making lunch?

Finally my patience wore out. Everyone’s voices blended into chaos. I screamed at one of the top of my lungs, my vocal chords scraping together, “WAIT ONE GODDAMN MINUTE!!!!!!” I regretted it as soon as I said it, but stood by it, slumped into my chair, and glared out the window, arms crossed, my chin set.

We drove in silence for another 10 minutes when we stopped at a rest area. John and the kids ran off to play catch on the lawn. John returned and said, “In a couple years when you yell like that, the kids aren’t going to want to travel with us anymore.” I grumbled. “What can we do to ease your burden?”  

When we stopped for dinner, I served them homemade chili with a crusty baguette. Porter was the first to address the morning: “Mom, we know we ask a lot of you. When you start feeling overwhelmed, look at this picture and know we really appreciate it. And we’ll try better to not bombard you and be more patient.” 

My eyes filled with tears, and I choked out how sorry I was that I lost my temper. They all smiled, the boys kissed my head, Siena squeezed my hand. 

*** 

I thought it would be a 7-hour drive. Newbie mistake. Driving through Iowa is a pretty straight shot. Despite the always blowing strong winds, you can easily go 70 mph on 35-S. Even onto Kansas City, it’s a pretty easy drive. But once you hit the mountains of Missouri, well, things get a little more complicated, with twists and turns, narrow roads, and steep climbs. Day turned to dusk while we admired the pink and vermillion sky as the sun set. Then the moon peeked at us from the horizon, bigger than life, the bright fiery orange gently faded to honey as it rose higher into the heavens. 

The last 30 miles was white-knuckled driving around hairpin steep mountain curves, and narrow lanes with no shoulders. John’s deep resigned sighs matched my quick nervous gasps. It was slow going. Those last 30 miles equated to two long hours. Ten miles from our destination, John had to pull over to shake off some frustration and tension.  

At last we arrived at our home for the week: Golden Pond RV Park. It was pitch dark save for the full crystal white moon. John went outside to install the hookups, while I set to work with grounding the jacks and opening the slides. Just as I was about to extend the big front slide, Rhodes dropped a jar of marbles. A jar of marbles. Didn’t I learn my lesson with Battleship when most of the itty-bitty pieces ended up in seat cushions and under foot on our first RV excursion? Little glass orbs fell like tiny bowling balls, rolling under every possible surface, fitting into the tiny cracks where the slide rollers and seals lay. I stood agape.  

John came in chuckling at the noise, which sounded like thunder from outside. He saw the look on my face and realized, well shit. Ginger had just spent several months at the manufacturer in Alabama getting a work-over from our last trip, which included a faulty bedroom slide. If the big slide didn’t function because of the marbles, we only had ourselves to blame. John’s face flushed red with anger. If the slide didn’t open that would mean the end of our trip, not to mention the expense we’d incur. I urged him to take a walk. The kids and I will figure it out, I promised. 

We found a slim curtain rod to flush out the marbles. Siena and Porter climbed into tight spaces, fitting their skinny hands into impossible crevices. We gathered every last marble, plus an acorn and a screw. We all held our breath as we let out the slide.  

It worked. 

John returned joyous when I noticed Rhodes had had an accident in his pants. A big stinky one. Just as I finished cleaning him up, the cat jumped on the dash and hacked up a nasty hairball. My stomach lurched. This time John told me to take a break. I went to fetch the kids’ pajamas. John soon followed… and we burst out laughing. 

We may be new to RVing, but we aren’t new to traveling. We know well enough that when it rains, it pours, but when the sun shines, it’s always bright. But that doesn’t mean I didn’t sage the hell out of the RV.

The Final Leg

The Final Leg

After celebrating a wonderful Yuletide holiday in the RV, we began the long drive home. We drove late into the night and landed in Crawfordsville, at the same KOA (and campsite number) that we started our journey on. It took a while to get going that morning, as we had to learn how to winterize the RV before getting into the northern states. The delay led us right into a snowstorm near Madison, Wisconsin.

Our windshield wiper went out again just in time for the snow, and an RV is not built to drive in this kind of weather, despite the monster-sized wheels. Having limited options and no campsite reservations (not that any are even open this far north at this time of year), we pulled into a truck stop and set up for the night.

I didn’t slept well. The scrape of a snow plow along the vast parking lot, and the big diesel engines of the semi trucks nestling in beside us were loud and disruptive. We were safe, but I felt a bit unsettled. And with boondocking without water, we weren’t able to sufficiently clean up before bed or use the bathroom facilities.

We woke early and pulled on our dirty clothes from the day before (we couldn’t extend the slide out, which means the closet and drawers of clothes were unavailable to us), had toast for breakfast, and hit the road.

We’re an hour from home. Our generous and kind neighbor and friend, Karl, shoveled and salted our walk, turned on the heat to the house and set out our packages and mail. To know we’re loved and missed is truly something.

I’m feeling bittersweet about our return. I’m excited to be home. To have space to move around again. For the kids to run and bellow to their hearts content in the basement, to have a dishwasher again, and the sanctuary of my Peacock Den.

But I will miss these days of exploring, of taking long hikes, of the togetherness.

I use an app on my phone to track my mental health. There are 5 mood categories: Great, Content, Meh/Fine, Anxious/Depressed, and Angry/Very Low.

Since the isolation of COVID began, I have lingered primarily in the Meh/Fine mood. Sometimes it lingers in Anxious/Depressed for long stretches, a few times in Angry/Very Low sometimes in Content, and very seldom, Great.

In the month we have been gone, my mood has clocked in primarily in the Content category. There’s been a couple days in Meh/Fine, and lots of days in Great.

Needless to say, this trip has been wonderful for my mental health. I feel closer to my kids and John and I are so connected.

We’ve had some frustrations and set backs, a steep learning curve with being new RV owners, and I have two new titles: Network Administrator and Master Troubleshooter, among the many other hats I wear in this family. But it’s good. I feel confident and happy. My kids and John are happy. The kids got to experience distance learning in a unique, immersive way.

We took 2020 by the balls, swung it around and made the best of it. We’ve come out better and stronger, and ready for 2021.

Biltmore Estate

Click the image below to view the full-size slide gallery and captions.

Botanical images from the conservatory

Built in 1895, the Biltmore Estate is quite possibly the grandest of all homes in the United States. The house has 250 rooms, 35 bedrooms, 65 fireplaces, 43 bathrooms, 2 basements, an indoor swimming pool, a bowling alley, and four acres of floorspace. George and Edith Vanderbilt opened this French Renaissance chateau to their friends and family exactly 125 years ago on the day we toured – Christmas Eve!

The house was decorated with 55 Christmas trees, all uniquely decorated. Fireplaces were draped in greenery, lights, and baubles, making for a most elegant display.

The estate sits on 8,000 acres, which includes a vineyard, a hotel, an inn, a village, restaurants, a horse ranch, and 70 acres of gardens including an 825-square foot conservatory filled with thousands of exotic plants.

Since our last visit fifteen years ago, the prices have more than tripled. Even with the boys having free admission, and Siena’s admission half off, we still paid over $300 to tour the estate! Needless to say, I took ALL the pictures.

Lake Lure

Chimney Rock

Nature Center

Hitching Post Campground